Kuşadası
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Kuşadası

Kuşadası

Aegean cruise port and beach resort, used as the closest base for ancient Ephesus.

Kuşadası is a cruise-ship port and beach resort on Turkey's central Aegean coast, best known as the closest port to the ruins of Ephesus. The name means "Bird Island," after the small Pigeon Island (Güvercinada) just off the shore, which carries the ruins of a 16th-century fortress the locals call the Pirate Castle. The town itself has grown massively over the last thirty years — from a quiet fishing village into one of Turkey's busiest resorts — and on a summer day when several cruise ships are in port the harbour area can feel overwhelming. But the setting is genuinely pretty, and it is an unbeatable base for exploring one of the richest archaeological landscapes in the world.

The reason most people come is Ephesus, thirty minutes north — one of the largest and best-preserved classical cities anywhere in the Mediterranean. The Library of Celsus, the Great Theatre, the marble-paved Curetes Street, and the houses on the slope of Mount Coressus are essential; come first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid both the heat and the worst of the cruise-ship crowds. Other day trips from Kuşadası include the ruins of Priene, Miletus, and Didyma to the south (the three together make a classic one-day loop), the House of the Virgin Mary in the hills above Ephesus (believed by Catholics to be where Mary spent her last days), and Pamukkale, three hours inland — the blinding white travertine terraces and the ruins of Hierapolis above them.

In Kuşadası itself, the Kaleiçi (the old walled town) tucked around the harbour still has cobblestone streets and old Ottoman houses converted to restaurants and carpet shops. The 17th-century Öküz Mehmet Paşa Mosque — known as the Kale Mosque — is the most striking of the town's Ottoman buildings. Long Beach (Uzun Plaj), south of the centre, is the best sandy beach nearby, though the city is not the main reason to come here.

Kuşadası is also one of the main jumping-off points for the Greek island of Samos, a ninety-minute ferry ride across the strait — a quick way to hop between Turkey and Greece, though you'll need your passport and the ferry doesn't always run in winter. Come in May, June, September, or October if you can; high summer is hot and crowded.