Hanoi
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Hanoi

Hanoi

Vietnamese capital with an Old Quarter of trade streets, ancient temples, French villas, and Hoàn Kiếm Lake.

Hanoi is one of Southeast Asia's most captivating capitals — a city where ancient temples sit next to French colonial villas, motorbikes swarm through streets barely wide enough for a bicycle, and the smell of pho drifts from every corner. As Vietnam's capital and second-largest city, it is the political and cultural heart of the country, with a history stretching back over a thousand years.

The Old Quarter is where most visitors spend their time, and for good reason. Its 36 streets are named after the trades that were once practiced on each one — Hang Gai for silk, Hang Bac for silver, Hang Ma for paper goods — and many still sell versions of their original wares. The narrow tube houses, some barely two metres wide, stack up several stories and open onto streets that are simultaneously chaotic and intimate. Early morning is the best time to explore, when tai chi groups practice by Hoan Kiem Lake and the city feels almost peaceful.

Beyond the Old Quarter, the French Quarter around the Opera House has wide boulevards and grand colonial architecture. Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum and the surrounding complex draw large crowds, though the one-pillar pagoda nearby is more interesting architecturally. The Temple of Literature, founded in 1070 as Vietnam's first university, is one of Hanoi's finest historical sites, with courtyards of stone stelae recording centuries of scholarly achievement.

Hanoi's street food is legendary and arguably the best in Vietnam. Pho bo — the beef noodle soup that has conquered the world — is at its finest here, eaten at tiny plastic-stool stalls that open before dawn. Bun cha, grilled pork patties served with rice noodles and herbs, is the city's other essential dish. For the best of both, head to the streets around the Old Quarter and follow the crowds.

Local tip

Hanoi is older, slower and more atmospheric than Saigon — its tangled Old Quarter has 36 ancient streets, each once dedicated to a single trade. Crossing the road through the river of scooters is an art: walk slowly and steadily, and they flow around you. Sip egg coffee, slurp bun cha, and watch life around Hoan Kiem Lake.

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Neighbourhoods