Geelong is Victoria's second-largest city, home to over 250,000 people, and sits on the western shore of Port Phillip Bay about an hour's drive from Melbourne. Long overshadowed by its neighbour, Geelong has reinvented itself in recent years around a revitalised waterfront that is genuinely worth visiting. The painted bollards by artist Jan Mitchell — over 100 of them, each depicting a local historical figure — line the promenade, and the Eastern Beach swimming enclosure, carousel, and string of cafes make it a pleasant spot to spend an afternoon.
The city is the main gateway to the Great Ocean Road, and most travelers heading for the Twelve Apostles pass through here. But Geelong also serves as the jumping-off point for the Bellarine Peninsula wine region, where you can taste cool-climate pinot noir and chardonnay at cellar doors within a 20-minute drive. The nearby towns of Queenscliff and Portarlington have excellent seafood restaurants and a slower pace.
The Geelong Gallery, in the city centre, has a strong collection of Australian art including one of the finest holdings of Frederick McCubbin paintings. Little Malop Street in the centre and Pakington Street in the suburb of Geelong West have the city's best independent cafes and restaurants. The Cats, Geelong's Australian Rules football team, are a source of intense local pride, and catching a game at GMHBA Stadium is a fine way to experience the city's character.