The big covered market at the northern end of Cumming Street is the working heart of Suva. The ground floor is given over to fruit, vegetables, fish, and seafood — taro, cassava, breadfruit, papaya, freshly caught walu and mahi-mahi laid out on banana leaves. Upstairs is the kava section, where vendors weigh and grade the dried root that is the social currency of Fiji.
Saturday morning is the busiest time, with farmers in from Sigatoka and Navua. Watch your bag in the crowds, and bring small notes — change can be a problem.