Café Tomaselli

The oldest coffeehouse in Salzburg, on Alter Markt since 1700, and an unbroken Mozart family haunt — Wolfgang's father Leopold played cards here weekly. The pale yellow upstairs salon with its rows of newspapers and silver coffee pots looks essentially as it did in 1900.

Order the Tomaselli melange and one of the apple strudels from the cake tray that circulates between tables. Service is starchy but correct. Avoid Saturday afternoons.

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