Salzburg has the coffeehouse tradition without the Viennese pomposity — at Café Tomaselli or Café Bazar you can read a newspaper for two hours over a single melange and no one will rush you. For drinks after dark, head to Steingasse in the Neustadt, where a string of small bars in 12th-century houses serve cocktails to a mixed local and student crowd. The Augustiner Bräustübl in Mülln is in a category of its own — the largest beer hall in Austria, run by monks, with stoneware mugs you rinse yourself in a fountain before drinking.