Central Bosnian town of Ottoman viziers, with a fortress, coloured mosque, and Ivo Andrić connections.
Travnik is a small, walkable town in central Bosnia that served as the seat of the Ottoman viziers for 150 years — making it, for a time, the most important town in Bosnia after Sarajevo. It is the birthplace of Ivo Andrić, the Nobel Prize-winning author of The Bridge on the Drina and Travnik Chronicles, and his former home is now a museum.
The town climbs up a narrow valley beneath a medieval fortress, with minarets, Ottoman-era houses, and the extraordinary Šarena Džamija (Multi-Coloured Mosque) punctuating the skyline. The highlight is Plava Voda (Blue Water), a powerful spring emerging from the base of Mount Vlašić — a beautiful spot with ice-cold water perfect for a splash on a summer day. The Elči Ibrahim-pašina Medresa nearby, built in 1706 in a neo-Moorish style, reflects Travnik's former importance as a centre of Islamic learning.
Mount Vlašić (2,000 metres), a 30-minute drive from town, offers hiking in summer and skiing in winter. Travnik can be visited year-round and its mild climate makes it pleasant in any season.
Guide
Eating Out
Travnik's food scene centres on the Plava Voda area, where a cluster of restaurants and cafes line the banks of the spring stream — it's the most pleasant place in town to eat. Traditional Bosnian food dominates: ćevapi (minced meat sausages), pita (thin pastry stuffed with meat, cheese, or spinach), and grilled meats with pljeskavica (a grilled meat patty that's a Bosnian staple).
Travnik is particularly famous for its sirnica — a local variety of cheese börek. Visitors coming from Sarajevo often stop specifically for the Travnička sirnica, which has a doughier, more substantial pastry than the standard version. Several pekare (bakeries) near the bazaar sell it fresh throughout the day.
Guide
Getting There
Travnik sits on the main road corridor through central Bosnia — the E661 running between Sarajevo (90 km southeast) and Jajce (46 km northwest). The town is an easy stop on the journey between the two.
By bus: Regular buses run between Sarajevo and Travnik, with several departures daily in each direction. Journey time is about 1.5 hours. Buses also connect from Jajce and other towns in the region.
By car: From Sarajevo, follow the E762 motorway northwest and then the E73 and E661 into Travnik. The drive takes about 1.5 hours depending on traffic through the Lašva Valley.
The nearest airport is Sarajevo International (SJJ), about 90 km away. There is no train service to Travnik.
