Santa Maria Formosa (Canneto Chapel)

The tiny Canneto Chapel is all that remains of a once-vast 6th-century Byzantine basilica that dominated central Pula. The original church was built at the orders of Archbishop Maximian of Ravenna and was decorated with mosaics and marble that reportedly rivalled the greatest churches of the Byzantine world. Over the centuries, quarrying and deliberate stripping reduced it to this single apse chapel, still standing beside the old town walls.

The chapel is compact but worth seeking out — its worn exterior belies a refined late antique interior with fragments of the original decorative programme visible. It sits in a residential quarter a short walk from the Forum, and finding it is half the pleasure.

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The original Santa Maria Formosa was one of the largest Byzantine basilicas in the Adriatic — larger than any church in Venice at the time of its construction in the 6th century. The Venetian doge Orseolo had it stripped of its marble decoration in the 10th century to ornament St. Mark's Basilica in Venice; only one small chapel survived.

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