Barone is the smartest of the restored fortresses, with a clean modern visitor centre, an augmented-reality history tour and a bar-restaurant that catches the late afternoon sun. The site is smaller than St Michael's but the panorama, slightly higher up the hill, takes in the whole archipelago.
The walk up from the centre is steep — fifteen minutes of stone steps through the residential streets behind the cathedral. A combined ticket covers Barone, St Michael's and St John's fortresses and is the best value if you plan to visit more than one. The terrace café here, Bedem, is a good place to wait out the midday heat.