Split is a late-night city in summer. The Riva waterfront promenade is the main evening ritual — long rows of terraced cafés where everyone sits with a coffee or a rakija and watches the sunset. Inside the walls of the palace, narrow lanes hide wine bars and cocktail places tucked into Roman doorways — Paradox and Marcvs Marvlvs Spalatensis Pub are good starting points. For nightlife proper, Bačvice is the centre of things: a crescent of open-air bars and clubs along the beach, with music that runs until dawn in July and August. The city's Split Music Festival (late July) and the Ultra Europe electronic music festival in mid-July bring enormous crowds; outside those weeks, the scene is still lively but human-scaled.