The Riva is Split's long waterfront promenade — a wide marble walkway running the length of the old town from the west gate to the harbour, lined with cafe tables on the water side and the high walls of Diocletian's Palace on the land side. It is where Split happens: morning espresso, afternoon strolling, evening aperitivo. The cafe chains are unremarkable; the setting is not.
The Riva faces west across the harbour to the island of Brač, visible as a long dark ridge on the horizon. Ferry boats depart from the eastern end for the islands — Brač, Hvar, Vis, and others — at all hours of the day; their horns and the bustle of boarding mark the rhythm of the harbour. The palm trees that line the outer edge were planted in the 19th century and have grown to substantial size; on summer evenings the Riva fills from end to end and the whole city seems to be outdoors.