Gornji Grad is the old fortified Upper Town, perched on a small hill west of the cathedral. The streets are cobbled, narrow, and largely closed to traffic; the buildings are mostly two or three storeys, painted in pastel washes, and most of the noisy commerce of the city has been kept out of it. This is where the country governs itself: the Croatian Parliament, the Banski Dvori (government building), the Constitutional Court.
It is also where Zagreb's most idiosyncratic small museums cluster — Broken Relationships, Naïve Art, the City Museum, Hangovers, 80s. The gas lamps along the streets are still lit at dusk every evening by a lamplighter, an unbroken tradition since the 19th century. The Strossmayer Promenade runs along the southern wall with a long view over the Lower Town; benches every few metres.