Nexo
©
Nexo

Nexo

Working Bornholm fishing port with Baltic boats, postwar streets, and the legacy of novelist Martin Andersen Nexø.

Nexø is the second-largest town on Bornholm, a working fishing port on the island's east coast. It lacks the half-timbered charm of Gudhjem or Svaneke, but it has an honest, unpolished character — the harbour is full of actual fishing boats rather than pleasure craft, and the fish you eat here came out of the Baltic that morning.

The town was heavily bombed by Soviet forces in May 1945, days after the rest of Denmark had been liberated, which explains why much of the architecture is postwar rather than picturesque. The Nexø Museum covers this history along with the life of Martin Andersen Nexø, the novelist who took the town's name as his own. The Bornholm Railway Museum is a separate gem a short walk from the centre, dedicated to the island's narrow-gauge railway that ran from 1900 to 1968.

Nexø Church dates from the medieval period and survived the 1945 bombing largely intact. Just west of town, the Bornholm Butterfly Park is a tropical greenhouse of free-flying butterflies — good for families and a surprising find on a Baltic island. South of town, the sandy beaches at Balka are among the best on Bornholm and draw Danish families throughout the summer. Further inland, the ancient megalith site at Gryet is one of Denmark's largest collections of standing stones, hidden in a wood just west of town.

Guide

Eating Out

Nexø's eating scene is unpretentious and directly connected to what comes out of the harbour. Smoked herring — a Bornholm speciality known as røgede sild — is available from stalls at the quayside and is the thing to eat here. It is typically served open-faced on dark rye bread with raw onion and a soft-boiled egg.

Several waterfront restaurants serve fresh fish of varying formality. The town is not a destination for fine dining but rewards anyone who wants honest local food at sensible prices.

Guide

Getting There

Nexø sits on the east coast of Bornholm, about 17 kilometres south of Rønne, the island's main town and transport hub. Bornholm is reached by ferry from Ystad in Sweden (approximately 80 minutes) or by flight from Copenhagen. The ferry terminal is in Rønne.

From Rønne, the BAT bus service (Bornholms Amts Trafikselskab) runs regular routes along the east coast road to Nexø. The journey takes about 35–40 minutes. Cycling from Rønne is also a reasonable option via the island's extensive network of cycle paths — the route south from Åkirkeby to Nexø is mostly flat and passes through attractive countryside.

There is no direct ferry connection to Nexø from the mainland; all sea arrivals go through Rønne.

Guide

Things to Do

Nexø is compact and unhurried. The harbour area rewards an early-morning walk when the fishing boats are active. The town's museums are small but genuinely interesting, and the surrounding landscape — beaches to the south, megalith-dotted woods to the west — makes for easy half-day excursions.

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