Amboise sits on the Loire 25 km east of Tours, a small town with an outsized history. The Château d'Amboise looms over everything — one of the first true Renaissance buildings in France, built by Charles VIII and later used by Francois I, who invited Leonardo da Vinci to spend his final years here. Leonardo is buried in the castle's Saint-Hubert chapel, and the Manoir du Clos Lucé, his home for his final three years, is a short walk from the chateau.
The old town below the castle is compact and walkable. The Tour de l'Horloge (14th century) marks the entrance to the market district — the Friday and Sunday market is one of the best in the region — and the Église Saint-Denis dates back to the 4th century. The Loire waterfront and Île d'Or below the chateau is the best spot at dusk. A short walk south of town, the Pagode de Chanteloup is the surviving folly of an 18th-century chateau — a Chinese-style pagoda rising 44 metres above ornamental gardens, built as a monument to loyalty by a duke exiled from Versailles.
Yes, it's touristy. Amboise gets day-trippers from Tours and overnight visitors following the Loire Valley chateau trail. Come in the evening or early morning if you want the castle to yourself.