Laval straddles the River Mayenne in western France, a compact medieval town that most travellers pass through without stopping — which is a shame. The old centre clusters around the Château de Laval, whose 45-metre-high donjon offers wide views over the river valley, and whose interior houses a collection of naïve art, including works by Henri Rousseau, who was born here.
The half-timbered streets of the old town below the château are pleasant for a wander, and the riverside quays make a good spot for a picnic. The Jardin de la Perrine, perched above the river, holds Rousseau's grave. Laval is well placed as a stop between Paris and Brittany.