Ancenis sits on a broad bend of the Loire about halfway between Nantes and Angers, where the river widens into something almost lake-like and the surrounding hills are planted end to end with vines. It is a small town — fewer than fifteen thousand people — but it carries itself with quiet confidence. The ruined towers of the Château d'Ancenis rise above the riverbank, the old centre has a grid of stone streets, and the covered market still fills on Saturday mornings.
The Loire à Vélo cycle route passes directly through, making Ancenis a natural rest stop or overnight base for anyone pedalling the river. The towpath stretches in both directions through flat riverside scenery, and on a clear morning the light off the water is the kind of thing that makes cyclists stop and reach for a camera.
Wine is the other reason to linger. The Coteaux d'Ancenis appellation covers a handful of grape varieties grown almost nowhere else in France — Malvoisie, Pinot Gris, and the red Cabernet Franc varietals that appear under the local name. Several domaines on the slopes above town offer tastings, and the local Muscadet is as good here as anywhere. The best introduction is simply to ask at a café which producers are worth visiting that week.