One of the few places on Mykonos where you can eat very well without paying nightclub prices. Kounelas is a no-frills harbour taverna that serves whatever fish came off the boats that morning — sea bream, red mullet, octopus, squid — grilled simply over charcoal. There are no menus with photographs, no cocktail lists, and no sunset-view premium. Just good fish, a jug of white wine, and a table near the water.
It fills up early and does not take reservations. Arrive before 8 pm or be prepared to wait.