Dingle's appeal divides cleanly into the town and the peninsula around it. The town is a small, walkable harbour with painted shopfronts, traditional music, and a remarkable density of good pubs and restaurants for its size. The peninsula is the real prize — a 50-kilometre loop of cliffs, beaches, beehive huts, ogham stones, and early Christian sites, much of it along the Slea Head Drive.
Allow at least two days. One for Slea Head Drive and the western end of the peninsula, with stops at Dunbeg Fort, Dunmore Head, and the Blasket Islands viewpoint. One for the Conor Pass north over the spine of the peninsula and the early Christian sites at Gallarus Oratory and Kilmalkedar. The Irish-language coast — known as the Corca Dhuibhne Gaeltacht — is one of the strongholds of spoken Irish; you will hear it in shops, schools, and pubs.