Orte is a small hilltop town in northern Lazio, perched on a tufa outcrop above a bend in the Tiber, about 80 km north of Rome and 20 km east of Civita Castellana. It is a place most travellers know only as a railway junction — the main Rome–Florence line and the Rome–Ancona line cross at the station down in the valley — but the medieval centre on the hill is one of the more atmospheric small towns in the region, and almost completely untouristed.
The historic core is compact: a tangle of narrow streets opening onto small piazzas, with the Orte Cathedral and several medieval churches scattered through it. The real surprise lies beneath the surface — the town sits on an extensive network of underground tunnels and cisterns carved into the soft volcanic rock, dating from Etruscan and Roman times and expanded throughout the Middle Ages. Guided visits leave from the tourist office on weekends.
From the panoramic terraces along the town walls there are long views over the Tiber valley and across to the foothills of Umbria. Allow a couple of hours for the centre, more if you book the underground tour, and combine the visit with Civita Castellana or the Etruscan necropolis at Castel Sant'Elia for a full day out from Rome.