☰Perilli a Testaccio

Open since 1911, Perilli is the oldest surviving trattoria in Testaccio and one of the oldest in Rome. The menu has barely changed: cacio e pepe, amatriciana, rigatoni con pajata, coda alla vaccinara, abbacchio scottadito. The dining room — tiled floors, white tablecloths, framed photos — has its own particular gravity. Come here for a sense of what Roman trattoria culture was before it became a tourist category. Book ahead; this is busy every service.