Trentino cooking is mountain food with strong Austrian influences — canederli (bread dumplings) in broth or with butter and sage, spätzle with smoked speck, strangolapreti (spinach gnocchi), polenta with mushrooms, and game in the autumn. The local wines are excellent and underrated: Teroldego (a dark, structured red), Marzemino, Müller-Thurgau, and the Trentodoc sparkling wines that rival the better Franciacortas.
Scrigno del Duomo, on the Piazza Duomo, is the city's reliable upmarket choice — refined Trentino cooking in a vaulted medieval cellar with a long wine list. Osteria a Le Due Spade, in a 16th-century inn near the cathedral, is the place for a slow tasting menu. For something simpler, Antica Trattoria Due Mori has been serving canederli and polenta in roughly the same form since 1882, and the cafés around Piazza Cesare Battisti do a brisk lunchtime trade in plates of the day at reasonable prices.