Pristina's attractions are concentrated in the compact city centre, easily covered on foot in a day. The mix of Ottoman, Yugoslav, and post-independence architecture tells the story of a city that has reinvented itself several times over.
Start with Mother Teresa Boulevard, the pedestrian axis where all of Pristina seems to pass at some point in the day. From there, the Newborn Monument and National Library of Kosovo — Pristina's most famous and most debated building — are a short walk toward the university. The Bazaar of Pristina and its surrounding Ottoman structures, including the Great Hammam, Jashar Pasha Mosque, and Clock Tower, are north of the boulevard and give a sense of the city before Yugoslavia.
The two American presidents have their own pilgrimage circuit: Bill Clinton and George W. Bush both have statues and streets named after them, testaments to a geopolitical gratitude rarely seen in Europe. The Kosovo Museum is worth an afternoon for the Neolithic figurine collection alone.
Day trips: the Gračanica Monastery is 10km south and one of the Balkans' finest Byzantine buildings. The Gazimestan monument on the Kosovo Polje plain, site of the 1389 battle and the 1989 Milošević speech, is 10km north.