Tetovo sits at the foot of the Shar Mountains in northwestern North Macedonia, on the edge of the broad Polog Valley. The river Pena runs through the centre, flowing down from the peaks above. It is a predominantly Albanian-speaking city with a lively bazaar atmosphere and a dramatic mountain backdrop.
The Sharena Dzhamija (Painted Mosque), built in 1438 on the bank of the Pena, is the town's most striking landmark. Its exterior walls are covered in intricate floral frescoes — unusual for an Ottoman mosque and worth a detour. On the hillside above town, the Bektashi tekke belongs to a Sufi order with deep roots in the western Balkans and is another notable site.
Legend has it that Tetovo got its name from a hero called Teto, who cleared the town of snakes — Tetovo means "Teto's place." The town has been an important trade centre since the Middle Ages, and its climate drew praise from 19th-century travellers: mild snowy winters, sunny and comfortably warm summers.
The ski resort of Popova Shapka lies 18 kilometres up an asphalt road into the Shar Mountains. In winter it draws skiers from across the country; in summer the same slopes attract paragliders. The mountains above town are also good for hiking, with trails leading up to alpine lakes and high pastures.