Trollfjord

Trollfjord is a two-kilometre gash in the mountains north of Svolvær, barely wide enough for a boat to turn in at its inner end. Sheer walls rise several hundred metres on both sides; waterfalls drop straight into the dark water; the sky is a thin strip overhead. It is one of the most dramatic short excursions in Norway and takes about half a day from Svolvær.

Several operators run boat trips to Trollfjord, typically from May through September. Rigid inflatable boats (RIBs) allow a closer approach to the walls and waterfalls; larger tour boats go at a more stately pace. The journey north through Raftsundet is scenic in its own right — the sound between Austvågøya and Hinnøya is narrow and mountain-flanked throughout.

In winter the trips continue under a different premise: the same narrow fjords that funnel herring bring orca in pursuit of the fish, and Trollfjord and Raftsundet are among the best places in Norway to watch killer whales at close range. Some winter trips combine both the fjord and whale watching in a single excursion.

things to do sight
A story
In January 1890, the steamer Viking tried to turn in Trollfjord with a load of fishermen who had monopolised the herring catch. A rival fleet blocked the exit. The standoff — known as the Battle of Trollfjord — ended without bloodshed, but it sparked a political crisis about fishing rights that lasted for years, and inspired the painting that made Gunnar Berg famous.

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