From late October to mid-January, vast schools of overwintering Atlantic herring pour into the Ofotfjord and the smaller fjords around Narvik. Pods of killer whales follow them in, joined by humpbacks, fin whales, and the occasional sperm whale. The result is one of the most reliable cold-water cetacean encounters in the world, and the centre of Norway's whale-watching industry has gradually shifted east from Tromsø to Narvik as the herring have moved.
Several operators run all-day RIB and hybrid-electric boat safaris from Narvik harbour. Trips run rain or shine and the polar night means much of the action takes place in dim blue twilight or under the aurora. Sightings are not quite guaranteed but in a good year approach 100 per cent. Bring warm clothes — the outer wear most operators supply is thermal but the wind chill is severe.