Olsztyn is the capital of the Warmia-Masuria region in northeastern Poland, a city of about 170,000 set among the lakes and forests that make this corner of the country so appealing. Its most famous resident was Nicolaus Copernicus, who served as administrator of Warmia from the Gothic castle that still stands in the old town. The castle now houses a museum with a permanent exhibition on the astronomer, including an astronomical table he carved into a wall to track the movements of the sun.
The old town is compact and pleasant, centered on a market square lined with restored townhouses. The red-brick Castle of the Warmian Chapter is the highlight, perched above the Lyna River with views over the surrounding parkland. The fourteenth-century Cathedral of St. James, with its ornate baroque interior, sits just outside the old town gate. Beyond the center, the city is remarkably green — there are several lakes within the city limits, and in summer locals swim, sail, and fish just minutes from the main square.
Olsztyn works well as a base for exploring the Masurian Lake District to the east, one of Poland's finest landscapes. The Great Masurian Lakes are less than an hour's drive away, and the region is excellent for kayaking, cycling, and sailing. Closer to town, the forest trails around Lake Ukiel offer easy walks and a popular beach.