Step through the doors of this church near Rossio and the effect is immediate: scorched pillars, crumbling plaster, iron supports bracing fire-blackened walls. A devastating blaze in 1959 gutted the interior, and rather than restore it to gleaming perfection, the parish left the damage visible — creating one of the most powerful sacred spaces in Lisbon. The church has stood here since the 13th century and witnessed some dark history, including the 1506 Lisbon massacre of Jewish converts. Today the burnt nave has an almost post-apocalyptic beauty, with shafts of light falling on damaged stone. It is free to enter, usually quiet, and provides a stark counterpoint to the gilded churches elsewhere in the city.