Nazaré is a fishing town on Portugal's Silver Coast that has become world-famous for its enormous waves. Praia do Norte, just north of the town, produces some of the biggest surfable waves on earth — the underwater Nazaré Canyon funnels Atlantic swells into walls of water that have exceeded 20 metres. Even if you have no intention of surfing, watching from the Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo during a big winter swell is extraordinary.
The town itself is built on two levels. The lower town (Praia) sits along the beach and is the lively centre of restaurants, cafes, and the fish market. The upper town (Sítio) perches on a clifftop 110 metres above, reached by the Nazaré Funicular, and has the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazaré, the tiny Ermida da Memória chapel on the clifftop edge, sweeping views, and a quieter atmosphere.
Nazaré has managed to keep some of its fishing village character despite the tourists. Women in traditional dress still sell fish on the beach, and the narrow streets behind the seafront have a working-town feel. The local grilled fish and caldeirada (fish stew) are excellent — try O Casalinho for traditional cooking a few streets back from the main tourist strip.