Setúbal's central market is the engine room of the city. The fish hall along the back wall is what people come for: dozens of stalls of sole, bream, octopus, sardines, swordfish, and the local choco (cuttlefish), much of it landed that morning at the port across the road. Tiled panels of azulejos along the walls show fishing scenes.
The fruit and vegetable side is good too, with stallholders happy to slice a piece of muscatel grape or sheep's cheese for you to try. Get there in the morning — by early afternoon the fishmongers have packed up. Closed Mondays.