Black Church

Vast 14th-century Gothic church, the largest between Vienna and Istanbul

The Biserica Neagra dominates the old town. Begun around 1383 and completed in the mid-15th century, it is the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul and a Saxon Lutheran congregation has worshipped here since the Reformation. The exterior buttresses bristle with statues from the original construction (originals now inside, copies outside).

Inside, the most surprising sight is the collection of Anatolian rugs — over a hundred of them, hung from the gallery rails. They were brought back as votive gifts by Brasov merchants who traded into the Ottoman Empire from the 16th century onwards, and form one of the largest collections of Turkish kilims outside Turkey. There is also a 4,000-pipe Buchholz organ from 1839; recitals run on Tuesdays at noon in summer.

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A story
The church owes its name not to its original colour but to a great fire in 1689, set during the Habsburg sack of the town, which scorched the outside walls black. The reddish-grey hue today is the residue of that smoke, never fully cleaned off. The fire also melted the tower bells and destroyed the original organ.

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