The old town around Plaza de los Naranjos is where most visitors start — plenty of tourist traps, but also a handful of genuine tapas bars on the backstreets. For fresh seafood, head west along the coast to the chiringuitos on the beach at San Pedro, where grilled sardines (espetos) cooked over driftwood are the local specialty. Puerto Banús has the flashy international end — Italian, sushi, steakhouses — priced accordingly. Around Elviria and the inland road you'll find the better Andalusian cooking, often at better prices than the seafront.