☰Bar Vélez

A few streets back from the beach, Bar Vélez is the kind of bar that serves the permanent population rather than summer visitors — a narrow room with a tiled bar, a television showing football, and free tapas with every drink in the old Andalucían tradition. The house wine comes from the Axarquía hills and is a pale, slightly fizzy vino de la tierra that pairs well with the salty olives and jamón. The contrast with the polished beach bars 200 metres away is instructive; this is the town as it exists when the season ends.