Gijón is the largest city in Asturias and a genuine working port that also happens to have a fine sandy beach in the middle of town. It does not have the tourist polish of San Sebastián or Santander, but that is part of the appeal — this is a real Spanish city where the seafood is superb, the cider flows freely, and visitors are a pleasant surprise rather than an industry.
The old fishermen's quarter of Cimadevilla, perched on a headland between the port and Playa de San Lorenzo, is the heart of the city. Its narrow streets are packed with sidrerías (cider bars) and pintxos joints. The Museo del Pueblo de Asturias and Eduardo Chillida's massive concrete sculpture "Elogio del Horizonte" on the headland are both worth your time.
Gijón hosts the Semana Negra, a lively summer festival devoted to crime fiction and noir culture, with concerts, book stalls, and a fairground along the waterfront. The International Film Festival each autumn is strong on independent cinema.