Helsingborg sits at the narrowest point of the Oresund, just four kilometres from Helsingor in Denmark. For centuries this was Sweden's gateway to the continent, and the town still feels more outward-looking than most Swedish cities of its size. The medieval tower of Kärnan — the only remnant of a once-massive fortress — rises above a handsome waterfront lined with restaurants and outdoor cafes.
The town centre is compact and walkable, climbing from the harbour up a steep terraced staircase to Kärnan. Along the way you pass the grand Helsingborg Konserthus, home to an internationally respected symphony orchestra, and the Dunkers Kulturhus, a striking modern cultural centre on the waterfront designed by Kim Utzon. Henry Dunker, the town's great industrialist benefactor, funded much of Helsingborg's cultural infrastructure, and it shows.
The coastline stretches north and south of the centre with good beaches and parkland. Sofiero Castle, a few kilometres north, has gardens that are among the finest in Sweden — the rhododendrons in late spring are spectacular. Ferries still run to Helsingor every few minutes, making a day trip to Denmark effortless.