La Fortuna de San Carlos is a small town in northern Costa Rica that has built an entire economy around the enormous volcanic cone looming above it. Arenal Volcano — one of the most symmetrical in the world — was intensely active from 1968 to 2010, drawing visitors who came to watch lava flows light up the night sky. It has been quiet since then, but the landscape of lava fields, cloud forest, and thermal springs that volcanic activity created remains spectacular.
The hot springs are the headline attraction. Geothermally heated water emerges at several points along the road toward the volcano, powering everything from luxury resort complexes to free public pools in the river. Tabacón is the most famous and expensive; smaller alternatives like Baldi and El Choyin offer the same warm water at lower cost. La Fortuna Waterfall — a 70-metre drop into an emerald swimming hole reached by a steep trail — is the other signature experience, best in the morning before the tour groups arrive. Beyond the main draws, the area offers whitewater rafting on the Arenal and Sarapiquí rivers, zip-lining through cloud forest, hanging bridge walks, and kayaking on Lake Arenal.
La Fortuna itself is a service town: tour agencies, restaurants, souvenir shops, and a central park with a church. It is friendly and unpretentious, and the food — particularly the traditional sodas — is good value. The area gets significant rainfall year-round, as it sits on the Caribbean slope of the continental divide. February to April is the driest period, but some rain should be expected at any time. Wildlife is surprisingly good around the edges of town: toucans, aracaris, and howler monkeys are common, and the rivers hold caimans. The drive from San José takes about three hours; the scenic alternative via Monteverde adds an hour but passes through beautiful cloud forest.