Qaqortoq

Southern Greenland town of painted harbour houses, old Danish buildings, and stone-and-man public art.

Qaqortoq — formerly known by its Danish name Julianehåb — is the largest town in southern Greenland, with a population of around 3,000. It sits at the head of a deep fjord surrounded by hills of dark rock and patches of summer green, and its brightly painted houses clustered around the harbour give it a warmth that surprises visitors expecting a bleaker Arctic settlement.

Several old buildings sit around the central square, which is anchored by the Mindebrønden, the oldest fountain in Greenland. The Cooper’s Shop dates from 1781. The Qaqortoq Museum displays Inuit utensils and Viking artifacts, and behind it stands an exact replica of a turf house from the early 1900s. The town tannery processes skins and furs and sells high-quality sealskin coats and hats worldwide; tours can be arranged. The Church of Our Saviour is the handsome red wooden church on the hill above town.

A remarkable open-air project called Stone and Man has turned the town’s rock faces into a sculpture gallery, with over thirty carvings made directly into the bedrock since 1993.

One popular excursion from Qaqortoq is the boat trip to Hvalsey Church, the most famous and best-preserved Viking ruin in Greenland — the site of the last recorded event in Norse Greenlandic history. On the island of Uunartoq, hot-spring pools at around 35°C are warm enough for bathing year-round. Sitting in the water while icebergs drift past the inlet is one of those only-in-Greenland experiences. Qaqortoq is 300 mi/485 km southeast of Nuuk.

Guide

Getting There

Qaqortoq is accessible by air and by sea. Air Greenland operates helicopter and small aircraft connections to Nuuk and other southern Greenland towns from the Qaqortoq Heliport. Flying is the fastest option but expensive — the Nuuk connection takes about an hour and costs roughly the same as a budget transatlantic ticket.

The more adventurous option is the Arctic Umiaq Line ferry, which sails between Nuuk and Qaqortoq calling at a series of small settlements on the way. The full journey from Nuuk takes around two days and the fjord scenery is extraordinary. Cabins are available for overnight legs. Schedules depend on season and ice conditions — check the Arctic Umiaq Line website before planning.

There are no roads connecting Qaqortoq to any other town in Greenland. The short stretch of local road (celebrated in its own right — see the Qaqortoq Road) exists only within the town and its immediate surroundings.

Guide

Things to Do

Qaqortoq is the largest town in southern Greenland and the cultural hub of the region. Despite its small population of around 3,000, it packs in more sights than most Arctic settlements — medieval fountains, Viking-era ruins, open-air sculptures, and a hot spring you can actually swim in.