Granada sits on the northwestern shore of Lago de Nicaragua, Central America's largest lake, with the Volcán Mombacho rising behind it. It is one of the oldest Spanish colonial cities in the Americas and one of the best-preserved — the cathedral, the main square, and the colourful facades along Calle La Calzada give the centre a coherent character that many similarly promoted colonial cities have lost.
The Parque Central anchors the city. Street vendors sell vigorón — yuca topped with pork rinds and curtido — wrapped in banana leaves, and horse-drawn carriages still carry passengers through the streets. The lake is close enough to feel present; boat trips to the isletas just offshore make for a good half-day out.
The Museo de Granada, set in a former Franciscan convent, holds pre-Columbian stone statues from Isla Zapatera — among the finest indigenous sculpture in Central America. The abandoned Hospital San Juan de Dios and Iglesia de La Merced, whose tower offers one of the best views in the city, are also worth seeking out.
Granada is small enough to walk in an afternoon and lively enough to reward a couple of nights.