San Agustín

Colombian highland town surrounded by pre-Columbian stone statues and tombs above the Río Magdalena.

San Agustín is a small town in the southern Colombian highlands, set in a green valley at the head of the Río Magdalena gorge. The town itself is quiet and unremarkable, but the surrounding landscape contains one of the most important archaeological sites in South America — a collection of several hundred carved stone statues and burial tombs left by a pre-Columbian civilisation that flourished here roughly from the 1st to the 8th century AD.

The statues are scattered across multiple sites on both sides of the Magdalena gorge, in settings that are often as striking as the carvings themselves — forested hillsides, river crossings, and mountaintop clearings. The Parque Arqueológico de San Agustín, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the main concentration, with dozens of statues arranged around burial mounds. Inside the park, the Fuente de Lavapatas — a riverbed carved with channels, serpent figures, and human faces through which water still flows — is one of the most unusual pre-Columbian monuments in South America. The Alto de los Ídolos, a few kilometres north via the village of Isnos, contains the largest statue, about 7 metres tall. The Estrecho del Magdalena, where the river narrows to just 2 metres between rock walls, is a striking natural feature nearby.

The town has a few basic restaurants and is a comfortable base for exploring the sites over two or three days. Horseback excursions to the more remote statue groups are popular and cover rough terrain that would be difficult on foot.

Guide

Activities

San Agustín's archaeological park holds the largest group of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures in South America, carved by people about whom almost nothing else is known.

The other thing here is the Magdalena, which runs through the Estrecho gorge nearby and is rafted commercially.

Guide

Getting There

About five buses go to Popayan and back each day. The road through Isnos is very spectacular but can be pretty rough on your stomach. The trip takes up to 8 hours.

Coomotor has direct buses all the way to Bogota, that take about 12 hours.

If you want to continue to Terradientro you need to take the bus to La Plata and change there. The whole trip can take a good 8 hours. Accommodation is available in La Plata.