Cherchell is a quiet coastal town about 90 kilometres west of Algiers, built directly on top of ancient Caesarea — the Roman capital of the province of Mauretania Caesariensis. For centuries this was one of the great cities of Roman North Africa, and the remains are scattered throughout the modern town: columns built into garden walls, mosaics under car parks, and fragments of temples reused in later Ottoman buildings.
The Archaeological Museum is the main reason to come. It is small but outstanding, housing one of the finest collections of Roman sculpture in North Africa — marble statues, portrait busts, and mosaic floors recovered from the ancient city. The quality of the work reflects Caesarea's importance: this was a royal capital before the Romans annexed it, and King Juba II (the same ruler associated with the Royal Mausoleum near Tipasa) filled it with Greek art and scholarship.
Around the town you can find the Roman Theatre and Roman Amphitheatre — both accessible without tickets and quietly impressive in the middle of ordinary streets. The harbour to the north is a pleasant place to sit after a morning among the ruins, with a few fish restaurants nearby.
The town itself is pleasant without being remarkable — a small harbour, a few fish restaurants, and a relaxed atmosphere that makes a welcome contrast to the capital. The drive from Algiers along the coast road passes through attractive mountain scenery. Cherchell makes an easy day trip, and combines well with a visit to Tipasa for a full day of Roman Algeria.