Edaga Hamus, literally "Thursday market", is the older indigenous part of Asmara — the city that existed before the Italian planners reorganised everything to the south of the railway. The narrow streets here are denser, more chaotic, and the houses are mostly older. Domestic life spills onto the pavement.
It is the most rewarding part of town for a wander after the colonial-era main streets begin to feel familiar. The streets between the Coptic cathedral and the great mosque are particularly good. Stop for a coffee at one of the local bunna stands; they will roast the beans in front of you and serve them in tiny cups.