The National Museum sits in the former Governor's residence on the western edge of the centre and is the main place to fill in the history that the city's architecture takes for granted. The displays cover Aksumite stone inscriptions from Qohaito and Adulis, ethnography from the nine major Eritrean ethnic groups, and a strong section on the thirty-year war for independence.
The collection is uneven — some galleries are excellent, others feel half-finished — but a couple of hours here gives much-needed context for everything outside. The pleasant garden around the building is a quiet spot for a break.