Azrou is a Berber market town in the Middle Atlas, about 80 km south of Fez, sitting at 1,200 metres between steep wooded hills and a volcanic rock outcrop. The name comes from the Berber word for "rock" — see the Azrou Rock in the centre of the old quarter. After the souk chaos of the imperial cities, it feels like somewhere people actually live.
The town has a long tradition of weaving — it was a trading post for nomadic Berber people — and you can still find well-made rugs and blankets at the Tuesday souk or the Ensemble Artisanal. The green-tiled roofs are a local signature. The pace is unhurried, the hassle low.
The cedar forests south of town are the main draw. Barbary macaques live in them, unbothered by visitors, and you can walk for hours through the trees. The forest stretches roughly 15 km before giving way to the volcanic cone of Jbel Hebri, and the wider Ifrane National Park takes in lakes and karst country east of town.