Terrasse Sidi Abdallah El Hajjam

The best viewpoint in town sits at the top of the Khiber quarter, reached by a steep stepped lane that climbs out of the main square. From the small terrace by the marabout of Sidi Abdallah you look back down on the green-tiled zaouia, the cylindrical minaret, and the white houses of Tasga spilling down the opposite hill. Beyond, the fertile plains of the Zerhoun stretch towards the Atlas mountains. Late afternoon is the time to come, when the light turns the whitewash gold and the swifts start their evening sweep over the rooftops.

Local boys often offer to lead you up for a few dirhams — happy to take it but not strictly necessary, the route is just a matter of always heading up.

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