Erlian

Inner Mongolian rail border town, known for Cretaceous fossils and the Trans-Mongolian bogie change

Erlian (Erenhot in Mongolian,二连浩特 in Chinese) is a small desert border town at the northern tip of Inner Mongolia, the last stop on Chinese territory before the Trans-Mongolian Railway crosses into Mongolia proper. Most visitors pass through in transit — the border crossing at Erlian connects to Zamiin-Uud on the Mongolian side, where the carriages are lifted and their bogies changed to match the wider Mongolian gauge — but the town has enough character and a strong enough claim on geological history to justify a short stay.

The dinosaur connection is the headline attraction. The Erlian Basin is one of the world's most productive Late Cretaceous fossil sites, and the bones of multiple sauropod and theropod species have been pulled from the surrounding desert. The Erlian Dinosaur Museum, seven kilometres from the town centre, has well-presented exhibits and a large outdoor garden of life-size skeletal replicas. The town has leaned into its prehistoric identity to an almost comic degree — the main street leads to a Dinosaur Plaza presided over by the famous "kissing dinosaurs" arch. It is all rather charming.

Beyond the fossils, Erlian sits on the edge of open steppe that stretches uninterrupted to the Mongolian border and beyond. The grassland tours available from the town are considerably less organised than those near Hohhot, which for some travellers is exactly the point. Xilinhot, several hours to the east, is a more developed base for grassland exploration if that is the priority, but Erlian's steppe is more accessible on a short visit.

The Trans-Mongolian Railway connects Erlian to Beijing in about twelve hours (train K23, departing Beijing at 11:22), and buses cross the border to Zamiin-Uud frequently through the day. The town is small enough to walk across in thirty minutes; accommodation is basic but adequate for a transit stop. The border crossing closes at night, so travellers arriving late should plan to sleep in Erlian and cross the following morning.

Guide

Getting There

The Trans-Mongolian Railway is the classic way to arrive in Erlian. Train K23 from Beijing departs at 11:22 and arrives at Erlian the following morning, about twelve hours later; the train continues to Ulaanbaatar and ultimately Moscow. The same train arrives from Ulaanbaatar heading south. Erlian is also served by regular long-distance buses from Zhangjiakou (about five hours), Hohhot (about seven hours), and Beijing. The bus journey from Beijing's Sihui terminal is cheaper than the train and about the same duration.

There is no airport in Erlian; the nearest airports are at Hohhot (Baita International, about 450 kilometres southwest) and Xilinhot (about 350 kilometres east). Car hire is impractical for most foreign visitors due to Chinese licensing requirements; taxis within the small town are inexpensive and guesthouses can arrange cars for the border crossing or steppe tours.