Green Inner Mongolian foothill city where Greater Khingan forests replace the open steppe.
Zalantun is a small city in the southeastern foothills of the Greater Khingan Mountains, in a corner of Inner Mongolia that most visitors never reach. Known locally as the "Little Jiangnan of Saibei" — Jiangnan being the lush, waterlogged region around Suzhou and Hangzhou — the nickname points at something genuine: Zalantun is greener, wetter, and more forested than anywhere in the grassland heartland to the west. Rivers cut through wooded gorges, fishing is good, and the landscape has a layered beauty that is entirely different from the open steppe.
The Greater Khingan range rises behind the city, and the forests that cover its slopes are among the largest remaining old-growth taiga in China. Hiking trails push into the hills from several points accessible by taxi from the city; the Pobuqi Gorge sections are particularly good in autumn, when the birch and aspen turn gold and the rivers run full. The Yalu River (a different Yalu from the one on the Korean border) flows through the district and is the basis for fishing trips and slow boat excursions. The surrounding land belongs largely to Daur, Oroqen, and Evenki communities, whose hunting and fishing cultures have shaped the landscape for centuries.
The city of Zalantun itself is modest — administrative buildings, a main street, the usual Chinese urban furniture — but the area around it is the draw. Hot spring resorts have appeared in the surrounding hills, offering comfortable bases for exploring the forests without committing to camping. The local food is influenced by the hunting traditions of the region: wild mushroom dishes, freshwater fish, and venison appear on menus more often than the lamb-based cuisine dominant further west in Inner Mongolia.
Zalantun has a small airport — Zhalantun Chengjisihan Airport — opened in 2016, and sits on the Harbin-Manzhouli Railway, making it accessible by train from both Harbin and Hailar. It is a natural stop for travellers crossing Inner Mongolia by rail who want to break the long journey with a day or two in the mountains. Summer is the peak season, though autumn is arguably better for scenery.
Guide
Getting There
Zalantun is served by two transport links that make it accessible without being crowded: the Harbin-Manzhouli Railway and the Zhalantun Chengjisihan Airport.
By train: The railway is the most practical option for most visitors. Direct services run from Harbin (roughly six to eight hours) and from Hailar to the west. Zalantun sits on the line as a natural stop for travellers crossing Inner Mongolia by rail, and the journey itself — through taiga forest and river valleys — is scenically worthwhile.
By air: Zhalantun Chengjisihan Airport (IATA: NZL) opened in 2016 and handles domestic flights, primarily to and from Harbin, Beijing, and Hohhot. It sits 14 km from the city centre; taxis are available. Services are limited and seasonal, so check schedules before relying on this option.
By road: Long-distance buses connect Zalantun to Hailar and to various points in Heilongjiang. The roads are paved but the journey from Harbin by bus takes considerably longer than the train.
Guide
When to Go
Zalantun has a continental climate — cold winters, warm summers, and a brief but spectacular autumn. Each season has something to recommend it, though summer and autumn draw the most visitors.
Summer (June–August) is peak season, with long daylight hours and warm temperatures suitable for hiking and river activities. The forests are at their greenest, wildflowers cover the hillsides, and the rivers are full. Expect crowds at the main scenic areas and book accommodation in advance.
Autumn (September–October) is arguably the best time to visit for scenery. The birch, aspen, and oak forests of the Khingan range turn gold, copper, and red in a display that is among the finest in northeastern China. Temperatures drop quickly after mid-October, and the window for comfortable walking is short.
Winter (November–March) is cold — temperatures regularly fall below -20°C — but the hot spring resorts are at their most appealing in these months. Snow covers the forest and the landscape acquires a stark, silent quality that has its own appeal for visitors willing to dress for it.
Spring (April–May) is the least visited season. Snow melt makes some trails muddy, but the forest renewal is rapid once it begins, and the city is quiet.