Guide

Predominantly Tibetan city in eastern Qinghai, set on the clear upper Yellow River.

Guide — pronounced "Gwee-deh" and written 贵德 in Chinese — is a small predominantly Tibetan city in Hainan Prefecture, about 80 kilometres southwest of Xining on the upper Yellow River. The setting is exceptional: the river is clear and fast here, not yet muddied by the silt it accumulates downstream, and the surrounding landscape of red sandstone cliffs and green terraced farmland makes the town one of the most visually rewarding stops in eastern Qinghai.

The Yellow River in Guide county is known locally as the "crystal river" because of its unusual clarity at this elevation — above the main sediment loads further downstream. The river banks and wetlands near town are popular with Chinese domestic visitors, and peach orchards in the valley bloom spectacularly in spring. The Guide Hot Springs outside the town centre attract visitors from Xining, particularly in winter. The Jade Emperor Pavilion (Yuwang Guan), a Taoist complex on a hilltop above the old town, provides the best panoramic view of the valley.

Guide sits at about 2,200 metres, lower than Xining, which makes it noticeably warmer and more sheltered. The old town has Tibetan, Salar, and Han Chinese communities reflected in its markets and teahouses. It is a comfortable overnight stop for travellers heading toward Qinghai Lake or the pastoral areas of Hainan Prefecture.

Buses from Xining's long-distance station run to Guide several times daily and take about two hours. The town has adequate mid-range accommodation. Most travellers pass through as part of a loop that takes in Qinghai Lake and then continues to the pastoral grasslands of the plateau interior.

Guide

Getting There

Buses from Xining's long-distance bus station run to Guide several times daily and take about two hours on the highway that follows the Yellow River upstream through the gorge. The journey itself is scenic — worth a window seat. The fare is around 25 yuan.

Guide has no train station of its own, but taxis from Xining are practical for those with luggage or travelling in a group; the fare should be around 120 to 150 yuan one-way. Most visitors come on a day trip from Xining, though staying overnight is worthwhile to catch the evening light on the cliffs and the morning market.

Guide

When to Go

Spring (April to May) is the most spectacular time to visit Guide, when the peach orchards on the terraced hillsides bloom in waves of pink and white against the red sandstone cliffs. This is when domestic visitors from Xining arrive in largest numbers for day trips.

Summer (June to August) is warm and green, with the river at its most navigable and the surrounding countryside lush. Autumn brings good clear weather and the harvest season in the orchards. Winter is cold but mild by Tibetan Plateau standards — Guide sits at only 2,200 metres, noticeably warmer than Xining — and the hot springs are particularly appealing when the temperature drops.