Qinghefang Old Street is the most atmospheric part of old Hangzhou — a pedestrian lane of Ming and Qing dynasty buildings that once formed the commercial heart of the imperial capital. The street runs for just over a kilometre and is lined with teahouses, traditional pharmacies, craft workshops, and snack stalls. It is genuinely historic, though the tourist overlay is heavy on weekends.
The buildings are real, even if most of the businesses are selling souvenirs. Worth seeking out: the traditional Chinese medicine shops where elderly pharmacists still grind herbs to order; the street food stalls selling Hangzhou specialities like braised pork belly bao, stinky tofu, and osmanthus cakes; and the old ink shop that has been operating in the same premises for centuries. Go early on a weekday for the best experience. The Hangzhou Museum at the eastern end adds archaeological depth to the neighbourhood visit.