The Kaliyadeh Palace stands on an island in the Kshipra River, about 8 km north of the city. Built in 1458 by the Mandu Sultans, it was later a retreat for Mughal emperors — Akbar stopped here several times on his journeys between Agra and Gujarat, and Jehangir left inscriptions. The palace sits in the middle of the river, surrounded by water on both sides, and the setting is quietly beautiful.
The building is in poor repair, the restoration half-hearted, and many of the chambers are inaccessible — but the island setting and the river views compensate. At the back of the palace, a solar device marks the Tropic of Cancer, and on the summer solstice, the sun passes directly overhead at noon. It is a reminder that Ujjain was once at the centre of Indian astronomical calculation.
Reach the palace by auto-rickshaw from the city; a boat takes visitors the short distance to the island. Best visited on a weekday when it is quieter.