Sulaymaniyah (also spelled Sulaimaniyah, or "Slemani" in Kurdish) is the second city of the Kurdistan Region, with a population of around 800,000. It has a different character from Erbil — more cosmopolitan in some ways, with a strong cultural and intellectual tradition, a lively arts scene, and a reputation as the most liberal city in Kurdistan.
The city is administered by the Patriotic Union of Kurdistan (PUK), in contrast to Erbil which is the base of the rival Kurdistan Democratic Party (KDP). This political distinction shapes the culture: Sulaymaniyah has historically been more open to dissent, poetry, and critical thought.
The Slemani Museum contains one of the best collections of Mesopotamian antiquities in the region, including remarkable pieces from Sumerian, Babylonian, and Assyrian periods. The Amna Suraka ("Red Security") museum, housed in the former headquarters of Saddam's secret police in the city, is an unflinching document of the Anfal campaign and the Ba'athist repression of the Kurds — disturbing and essential.
The bazaar is large and lively. The surrounding countryside — mountains, valleys, waterfalls — is accessible on day trips and popular with Kurdish families in summer.