The grandest of the Chinatown restaurants, founded in 1946 in a substantial red-and-gold building on the main north-south lane. Kouzanrou serves an ample menu of Fujianese and Cantonese-influenced Chinese food, but the speciality is sara udon — Nagasaki's other great noodle dish, crisp-fried thin noodles topped with a thick seafood and vegetable sauce. Lunch sets are reasonable; dinner in the upstairs banquet rooms is more of an occasion. The pork buns from the takeout window are a Nagasaki institution.